Jewelry Making Methods
The following are the most common methods of jewelry creation that you are likely to encounter. Regardless of method, quality is determined by the craftsmanship and attention to detail during creation. A knowledgeable jeweler will be able to tell you how a piece was created.
Casting
Today, almost all casting is via the "Lost Wax" method. A wax model is formed, by hand or by mold, then the model is encased in plaster. The plaster is heated so that the wax burns away and is "lost". Molten metal is forced into the cavity previously occupied by the original wax and a metal replica of the original wax model is produced.
This method is used in the creation of one-of-a-kind custom pieces by individual craftsmen as well as in mass produced jewelry. As you can imagine, the quality of the finished product can vary significantly.
As a consumer, you should inspect jewelry closely from all sides and all available angles. Look for pitting, bubbling, irregular coloring, mold seams, unfinished interior work and areas that did not completely fill with metal during casting. These are among the warning signs of lesser quality pieces.
Die-Striking
The second most common method of jewelry in making jewelry is die-striking. As the name implies, this method involves pressing a metal within a die to create its shape. Fine watch cases, rings, and coins are examples of die-struck items.
Some of the most and least expensive jewelry is created by die striking. The value is determined by the quality, precision and craftsmanship that is employed. Die-striking can produce pieces of high quality and fine detail that, in contrast to casting, require little finish work. It can also be used to mass produce thin, flimsy items that are relatively inexpensive.
High quality die struck jewelry has a greater density than cast jewelry with the same appearance. The compression of the metal during the die striking process eliminates any porosity, or bubbles in the metal, that may be found in castings. What this means to the wearer is that a die struck piece of jewelry has greater durability and retains its shape and polish better than a similar cast piece.
Die striking can only be used for certain styles of jewelry, those that are primarily solid in style without undercutting.
Assembled, Fabricated and Handmade Items
Assembled items are those comprised of parts that were created via various methods. A ring assembled from a die-struck shank and soldered to a cast setting might be referred to as "cast, die struck, and assembled".
Fabricated means that the item was created from rolled sheet and wire by a bench jeweler. It usually involves soldering and may incorporate other pre-made parts.
Handmade (in the strictest sense) means that the craftsman began with only raw materials, such as an ingot, as opposed to using purchased or prefabricated parts.
As should be familiar by now, examine pieces closely and pay attention to detail. Craftsmanship, quality of detail and finish work, symmetry, artistic design and aesthetics are important components in determining value.
